Monday, March 10, 2008

My man

Some friends asked me about how my man shall be? So this was my answer a few years ago... It has not changed much... Only my outlook on life has become more positive... I would add... Sharing laughter, wit and beautiful moments to make it all worthwhile!

My man shall know the fear and respect of god,
My man shall say his opinion, and not always nod.
My man shall have deep and very sincere eyes
He shall be there for me and never tell me lies
He shall understand and not be too judgmental
His courage and patience should be monumental
My man shall have values and morals above all
I expect him to hold me tight and break my fall
My man should have within him a lot of humor
And not be ready to let go of US just for a rumor
If I start crying, I want him to wipe my tears
And just be there to help me get over my fears
I want my man to be proud, nice and mature
I want to live with him and always feel secure
I want him to hug me back and show me passion
And have mercy on others and also compassion
I want him not necessarily to talk at bad times
Just hold my hands and keep looking into my eyes
I want him to get along with the ones I care for
And know that love is what you gotta stand for
I simply want him to be himself when I'm there
And sometimes be US if I'm gone elsewhere
I also want him to be truthful and have a big heart
And promise me that under love we'll never part...

Shining Morocco


An old man in his Jellaba*, in his arms holding his grandchild,
Walking under a blazing sun, springtime, so warm, yet mild.
They reminisce about the terrorist acts of religion bashing bigots,
Who under false claims aim to seize powers no democracy allots.
Acting with indifference to the religious teachings they preach,
Filled with envy, exploiting poverty, hatred is what they teach.
The man looks at the young lad with eyes full of tenderness,
Tells him of old times people’s hearts were filled with kindness.
A tear escapes his eye as he tells the child about laughter,
About a beautiful Morocco whose children loved one another.
Times have changed; intolerance found its way to the hearts
Of those who aim at the soul of Morocco with poisonous darts.
The child cannot comprehend how such anger can exist
Why terrorists driven against their people; with the devil enlist
The land of his ancestors he would like to defend and uphold,
Against those extremists whose hearts have grown so cold.
The elder evokes memories of his own long forgotten childhood
When people of all walks of life did not fear for their livelihood.
He lost a son to the first attacks that took from his heart a piece.
Truly, you can bomb the world into pieces but not into peace.
He talks to his orphan grandchild about tolerance and love
Two concepts we forget; yet we long to find and often speak of
“Son”, he says, “learn to love others and accept their differences,
The way to harmony lies within you, do not forego your chances”
A wrinkled smile lies in the corner of his mouth; he’s thoughtful
He holds such strong love for the next generation; so he’s hopeful
He wants his grandchild to learn from life and be educated
He also wishes that his granddaughters will be emancipated.
With a weak voice, he says some prayers for you and me,
Hoping for a better future for Morocco, shining endlessly!

Zainabest


*: Jellaba is a Moroccan attire. Just FYI for my Non Moroccan friends who may not be familiar with it. Check picture.

Moroccan women

This goes out to some men who've thought less of a woman because she's Moroccan...

Since when does Moroccan rhyme with sleazy?
With your corrupt minds you’ve often called us easy?
Just because of our attire, you choose to judge,
Keep on messing, we simply won’t hold a grudge
We are proud and confident in our unique identity,
Wonderful mothers, wives, sisters with integrity,
Professors, scientists, doctors, we’re accomplished,
Envy us; it’s more than what you would have wished!
Tolerant, we love our differences and embrace them,
Muslims and Jews, we still sing the same anthem.
You dare put us down because of your own fear,
Seeing such strong women makes you disappear
Behind your oil money and presumptions you hide
Claiming Arabic belonging and a fake sense of pride
Arabs, Moors, Berbers, Moroccans stand united
Our delight in who we are will never be defeated.
You cast heresy on us for being strong and different
Yet, you’re so scared of our refusal and dissent.
We walk tall, unaware of your miserable words,
Remember, we are smarter without being nerds.
You want to conquer us with your oppressiveness
Find yourselves confused, your feelings are a mess
Beauty over beauty, wit and the desire to please,
The crushed fantasies of yours you seek to appease.
Not our women, we’re too good for even all your riches,
If a few succumb, they’re the fruit of what poverty teaches
You preach correct morals yet you overlook your failings
Show much arrogance and disgrace in your dealings.
Know that Moroccan women are beyond and above you
Look elsewhere, this is my piece of advice to you.

Zainabest

Friday, October 26, 2007

Independent Monitor_ October 07: Yosemite


Camping may not be the most appealing kind of get away for Arab Americans; it however has great advantages. Most Arab Americans prefer the luxury of hotels to that of a campsite, just like it is more common for them to travel back “home” wherever that might be than engage in an adventure exploring the United States.
A recent trip I took to Yosemite convinced me that this experience ought to be shared. Arab youth is inclined toward the outdoors lifestyle, but the al fresco experience should not be subject to an age barrier. It is worth mentioning however that children of young age may have a hard time in a National Park like Yosemite; where the most spectacular hikes may be too difficult for toddlers and youngsters.
The most challenging hike in Yosemite may not be Half Dome, it is however the most famous. It is very strenuous and people who engage in it deserve the credit of having gone thus far. A roundtrip of about 17 miles overall leaves many people speechless at the sights throughout the long walk, but also scared due to the ardor and difficulty of some parts of the hike.
Half Dome, which can be seen in its full light throughout most of the valley, is best observed from Glacier Point. Glacier Point is the name of a hill top from which one can observe the different sites of the valley and get a full picture of the wonders it offers.
A local legend of a native Indian woman and her brutal husband are behind the names given to Half Dome, Big Dome and the valley in between. It speaks against the violence of men against their women and the imbalance it brings to nature and society. A reminder of the wisdom behind tales!
This last year, there were not enough precipitations. Anyone can notice the scarcity of water and dryness of certain waterfalls. Some leave the visitors speechless nevertheless. For under $150 per week in a sizeable campsite, as many as 6 or more visitors can enjoy the sightseeing, animal watching and scenery around one of the campgrounds.
Lower and Upper Pines are the two closest campgrounds to Curry Village. At a walking distance from the latter, they offer the bare amenities needed for camping: bathrooms, bear proof storage, and trash facilities. At the village, there is a food court with a few choices for those who do not feel like barbecuing or simply decide to buy more provisions to do so. There is also a swimming pool, showers, and other amenities.
Not far from Curry Village is Yosemite Village, accessible by bus, it offers a big store that caters different options for campers: from food to firewood, pretty much everything is available.
Camping is not the only option for travelers at the park. It is possible to stay at the local hotel or rent a cabin if one does not want to play in the dirt. It is more costly however and takes some of the excitement of camping away.
Some may feel that the presence of bears might be too frightening and opt for a cabin or a hotel room. Contrary to common misconceptions, these animals do not attack. They may come after the food if any of it is left unsupervised or out in the open, but they rarely go after humans. This year, bear appearances have been observed more frequently, probably because they are about to hibernate and the drought has left them with minimal options.
Bears are not the only animals one might come across; in fact, visitors are more likely to come across other animals than bears. Mule deer enjoys eating fruits like the apples in certain parking lots, but they also graze just about everywhere. They do not seem scared of humans; in fact, they are used to their presence and know they are more likely to find food if people are around. Squirrels, snakes, trouts, blue jays and other animals can be seen throughout the park if one is cautious enough.
Several activities are made available to the visitors. From bike rides to horse riding, each person is sure to find at least one activity to strike his/her fancy.
Within one day upon arrival at Yosemite, one can forget the crowded cities and lights and reminisce in the beauty of nature. At night, an activity worth sharing with friends is star gazing. Depending on the time of the year, the sky can be so clear one can spot several shooting stars and satellites or simply gaze at the mounts and valleys under the strong light provided by the moon when it is full or close to being so. Spectacular views of the details and ridges of each valley, the dome, Glacier Point; all of which compliment the beauty of the night with the sky as the ultimate blanket, make a trip to Yosemite a must for the young and young at heart.
For beginners, Bridal Veil seems to be one of the easiest hikes; one can get to its starting point via free shuttle or by car. The view is absolutely gorgeous: waterfalls from which smaller streams come down to ultimately bring joy to the eyes of the beholder. It is important to be careful during this hike if one decides to go across the rocks as some may be pretty slippery; both when dry and when wet.
A more breathtaking waterfall is on the way to half dome. It is strenuous but worthwhile. Vernal Falls, the top of which is at less than two miles from the beginning of the hike toward Half Dome is truly awe-inspiring. One can observe it without going all the way to the top, but if adventurous enough, it is a recommended trail. One ought to be careful when reaching the top as the rocks tend to be somewhat slippery; especially on the other side of the fence.
For those interested in Yosemite, it is important to remember bringing an extra jacket, good hiking shoes, sunscreen and repellent.
For more information, visit: http://www.us-parks.com/yosemite/

Friday, August 24, 2007

Independent Monitor_ August 07: Egypt


As you land in the Cairo Airport, you can’t help but notice how sticky your skin feels, the Egyptian experience sure is glued to your skin, I mean mind, for life.
Rich with its many sites and historical venues, Egypt is a haven for people who like to join the mystical pharaonic experience to the more recent history of the Ottomans and Arabs who have ruled it. From the pyramids where the greatest pharaohs of Egypt had their bodies buried to the beautiful mosques across the city of Cairo, one thing keeps on reminding you of the greatness of the civilization of this country. Egypt, mother of the world as some have called it, is indeed where several civilizations have clashed, rebuilt themselves and prospered. With an estimated 20 million people in Cairo alone, you cannot help but feel invaded by the cars; the people crossing in all the directions, yet… in the midst of this buoyant city, people learn to be forgiving. They somehow manage to avoid almost definite accidents, wave their hands to signal their frustration at the heavy traffic, and then carry on with their driving.
Tourists flood the country from all corners of the world. Some are overzealous to see the countless riches of the pharaohs gladly preserved in the Museum of Cairo. Although the Louvre’s Museum in France and the British National Museum have squandered many of the pharaonic riches, some people still want to see the site at which these monuments and artifacts were recovered. Others like to visit the pyramids, thinking they would find mythical creatures and treasures. They are often up for a disappointment when they realize that the closed circuit they are entitled to visit within the pyramids is eventless, a trap for claustrophobic and asthmatic people. They can nevertheless get the consolation of walking in the footsteps of big men, including Napoleon, who tried to destroy, and unfortunately damaged some of the beautiful monuments of Cairo. Such monuments as Abu Al Hull, the standing lion, defending the three big pyramids along with the small three others often gone unnoticed by the people, were unfortunate enough to face Napoleon’s wrath. The utmost consolation though remains the discovery of such beautiful places as Hurghada or Alexandria, where one can relax from the noisy streets of Cairo and the overcrowded small neighborhoods. Khan El Khalili is a place of wonders for those who want to immerse themselves into the daily life of the local people. It is a must-see as many of the greatest writers of Egypt have found inspiration in the very streets of these quarters. For shopping, it is important to know the art of haggling. Just like in most developing countries, it is very common for the prices to be changeable, depending on the skills of the buyer. One needs a lot of patience and a good sense of humor to win over the Egyptian merchant. Egyptians, as a people, are kind, warm and welcoming. They love tourists and what they can bring them in terms of resources, but they are also very cheerful people who love to bust a joke to make their guests comfortable.
Whether at the mosque of the Sayeda Zaynab or at the Sayedna el Hussein, people come from all around Cairo to pray there and give a few Egyptian pounds to the poor.
The Coptic churches and other religious temples are a rare beauty. Rich with history and beautifully decorated, they bring joy to the sightseer, a hope for coexistence between religions in a region often undermined by religious and ethnic conflicts.
The pharaonic village is must-see as well. It reconstructs the history and ways of the pharaohs, featuring a boat ride on the Nile River and different scene recreated by the people as a token of what once was everyday life for the ancient Egyptians. They say that once a person drinks from the Nile, destiny binds him/her to return to Egypt a second time. Although the water is said to be unsafe, one might be tempted to at least try it in order to be offered a second visit to the enchanting Egyptian cities. Nightlife is highly prized in Egypt, considering the heat during the day. There are several cruises on the Nile for the tourists, as well as the possibility to just lounge around in a Cabaret. These night establishments tend to be male dominated, just like most coffee shops at night, but they also offer a different view of Egyptian culture and nightlife.
Alexandria is a great retreat for those who like to visit the coast, but the true jewel of all coastal cities is probably Hurghada, although some say that Sharm Al Shaykh is more pleasant. Hurghada features miles of beaches on the Red Sea. The wondrous part about these beaches is the succession of colors in the water. Five different shades of blue, added to the sky will make any artist’s heart unwind.
From the regular blue of the first few yards, to the darker blue of the depths, followed by the Emerald color of the water further inside, and then the turquoise water covering the corals and later unfolding another dark blue, one could get lost just staring and reminiscing about which of these shades of blue truly is one’s favorite. Several activities are made available to tourists, from boat rides with glass bases that allow exotic fish watching, to nice belly dancing shows that fire up dance floors regardless of one’s aptitude or lack thereof to dance. There truly are several options for the traveler.
The tropical fruit juices available in Egypt are a marvel on their own. Mango juice in Egypt is a wonder in its own right, and so is the Guava juice.
Walking through the old markets remains my favorite activity in Egypt, although the heat makes it barely conceivable. With over 100 degrees in the summer, getting sick or sunburned seems to be a frequent occurrence. It is recommended to stack up on medications before leaving. Although Egyptian Medicine is quite advanced, the last thing anyone wants is to get sick during a trip.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Independent Monitor_ July 07: Morocco


A traveler’s journey begins home. In Morocco, a famous saying has it that “he who has not traveled does not know the value of men (humanity)”. Hence my choice for my home country as a starting point in this section.
An article alone could not do justice to Morocco as a country; it is far too diverse to be confined in one piece of writing. It is a country where you can ski, surf, hike, go on a safari, swim and dive all in one week. I will however try to share the wealth of this mesmerizing country.
Its name in Arabic is Maghrib, a word to designate the place the sun sets. For several centuries, Morocco has puzzled travelers from different backgrounds. Many have settled there to make it their home, but it never lost its originality. In its poignant ambivalent contrasts, Morocco is still the home to over 30 million people who adorn the diversity of their country by exercising their right and privilege to stay tolerant on a daily basis.
With a rich past and a promising future, it remains an exotic destination for many tourists from across the globe. Several celebrities have chosen Morocco as a second home or have made their homes “look Moroccan”. In fashion, the Moroccan arts of needlepoint, embroidery and geometric designs have made their way to the heart of the industry.
From P. Diddy’s birthday celebration in Morocco with a full marriage ceremony in 2003 to Mariah Carey’s home design to Elizabeth Taylor’s famous Moroccan attire, appearances of Moroccan art made their way into Hollywood and beyond it.
The country known for its wonders, delicious food, multiple colors, ethnic diversity and serene life that compensates between the reminiscent past and the outlook on a bright future still charms its visitors. Morocco is a place to feel close to nature, immersed in history and myth, yet detached from the present.
From the northern cities of Tetuan and Tangiers, only a few miles from Spain, to the heart of the country, Marrakech, and Morocco’s other cities, it is a place for endless fun at affordable prices.
In Tangiers, one can’t help but gaze at the incredible sight of Sunrise and Sunset on the Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea the same day. The Hercules Cave, said to have been a shelter for Hercules and several pirates still charms its visitors. Tangiers is a mix between San Francisco (on a smaller scale) and the Spanish lifestyle of the middle nineteen hundreds, with an Arabic twist. Tetuan, only sixty miles away, is great for its beaches and warm people, although more famous for its shopping and proximity to Ceuta, the Spanish city on Moroccan soil.
Fez, the city with the oldest continuously operating university in the world, is still considered the cultural and historical capital of the country. It is the city that sealed the first blood connection between Arabs and Berbers with the marriage of its first Muslim leader, Idriss the First to Kenza, the tribe’s chief’s daughter. A few miles away, one can reach the beautiful scenery of the Atlas. Many Berber tribes, Amazigh, the free men, live in the region. Some of them have maintained most of their customs over the years. They are hospitable and welcoming to foreigners but hold their traditions closely. Nearby is Ifrane, the city people adore in the snow season, and which also offers a great sight when the snow melts and the springs fill up as all the plants blossom in the spring. The city became a student town with the establishment of the Al Akhawayn University, an American University with great appeal to students from the country and outside of it.
Rabat, the capital, is a hidden jewel. Many overlook it due to its position as the center of administrative activities. It is rich with historical monuments and ruins. You cannot trust its inhabitants with directions however. They love to give misleading ones. The Hassan Tower, the Kasbah of the old Medina and the marketplace are where I used to love going to connect with random strangers and watch my afternoon go by while drinking some tea at the local wood or silver merchant.
Just seventy miles from Rabat is the city of Casablanca, if Humphrey Bogart fell in love there with a beautiful Ingrid Bergman, one can expect to fall in love too, only with the city this time. It is the living hub for clubbing, shopping and several activities. Some call it the capital of Africa, but considering it is not representative of the rest of the continent, it is difficult for the city to assume such a responsibility. It is a melting pot for the African, Arabic, European and other cultures at best.
Marrakech, further south, is the new destination for several Europeans. Real Estate prices have skyrocketed in the region ever since several Europeans have decided to make it their retirement home, or simply move there. Many continue to fall under its many charms and warm people. The city has shifted from being a place for tourists to becoming a constant home to many of them.
Along with Marrakech, Agadir, another southern pearl, presents a great opportunity to relax. This town also offers the refreshment of the coast as opposed to Marrakech that can prove to be too hot in the summer. Its beautiful sandy beaches are only matched by its other Moroccan rivals such as Essaouira, one of the best places to surf in Morocco. A few miles away however, one can discover the stunning waterfalls of the Ouzoud, or go for a safari in the desert.
Morocco is known for its wide desert; strikingly captivating sand dunes await its visitors. These very dunes could almost gain the status of a world wonder. In fact, they are in the eyes of those who visit them. The region has often been the host of American crews for several movies, from the Gladiator to Four Feathers and Babel, the cinematographic presence of Hollywood and other foreign movie makers help develop the region’s economic infrastructure without drastically changing its nature. Tent hotels are even available for the bold and daring. I personally stayed in one and thought it was charming; it was like a beautiful dream of 1002 nights.
Recent terrorist attacks have threatened to gloom the uplifting Moroccan feel, but little did the terrorists know that security measures were taken before the events. All their attempts were prevented and calm has been restored in the region. “I am a Spanish Professor, although I do not speak much French and even less Arabic, I feel much safer in Morocco than I ever felt in Mexico,” said Bonnie Gasior, a professor at California State University of Long Beach who has traveled to Mexico several times and was my guest in a recent visit to Morocco.

Friday, May 25, 2007

Translation of a Tel Quel © Article in English

Investigation. Sexual slavery

They leave their country to work in the Gulf as hairdressers or hostesses, thousands of Moroccan women find themselves confined, beaten and forced to become prostitutes. Looking for a way out, some are imprisoned or even murdered! And Morocco keeps quiet, in the name of "diplomatic considerations". It is time to break this scandalous situation!

The scene happens in the capital of a rich Gulf country: A girl in her nightgown runs inside the Moroccan embassy. In tears, she asks the officials to repatriate her right away to Casablanca. "Please hurry, I implore you! Otherwise, they will come get me and take me back and force me to work at the cabaret!” she cries out. Obviously, the girl is alarmed. She does not stop turning around to make sure no one has followed her. The embassy officials ask her for her passport. "I don’t have it on me. My employer confiscated it since my arrival here", she replies. The employees of the embassy end up helping her with her request and undertake the preparation of the laissez-passer (Permit to go through without papers) that will allow her to go back to Morocco…

Forced prostitution


THE STORY of this girl at the embassy, a recent one, is not an exceptional one, nor is it an isolated case. She is one of hundreds of Moroccan girls who leave to work as nannies, hairdressers or hostesses in the countries of the Gulf, to find themselves hostages of human traffic networks. Confined, often mistreated, they are forced to work in the night environments, the next step for them being: Becoming prostitutes. "I made the error of my life when I allowed them to leave. What relieves me is that I managed to save them before they ended up in the realm of prostitution", said Ahmed, well into his fifties, while telling the story of his two girls, 23 and 25 years old. The two were held for long weeks in Jordan, after they refused "to dance and sleep with the customers" of the five star hotel where they were supposed to work as welcoming hostesses. "Since their return, they’ve refused to talk about what happened to them. The subject became taboo in the house", he said with teary eyes.

Over the years, this topic of which one speaks only in muttered words, has taken nevertheless an unprecedented extent. The different countries (Morocco included) have yet to react to it openly. Many people are thus sacrificed on the altar of diplomatic relations, economical issues or simply to safeguard "the national honor", poked every time the word "Moroccan" is pronounced in any of these petro-monarchies. In the imagination of Middle-Easterners, as it has often been confirmed by witnesses, a Moroccan is seen at worst as "a prostitute", at best as "a husbands’ thief or a witch".

Behind this stereotype lie true tragedies. On condition of anonymity, a top ranking official of the ministry of the Jordanian interior talks about more than 30,000 Moroccan girls living in Jordan, working in various activities. The figure appears rather excessive, for a country that counts only 5.3 millions inhabitants. At any rate, it is greatly contested by Moroccan authorities. "These exaggerated numbers are the result of a war between networks. All in all, there are 141 Moroccan girls registered as artists", says a Moroccan consular employee in Amman. In Jordan, the word "artist" is used to save face; under it are all the workers of the night (barmaids, dancers, singers…). When they land on Jordanian territory, the young women are supposed to register themselves with the union of the artists that gives them "an authorization to exercise". But most often, this card is used to cover other night activities.

It remains nevertheless difficult to establish a reliable census of the Moroccans living in Jordan, because of the clandestine immigration networks. "During the last five years, thousands of Moroccans entered Jordan, as tourists, coming from other countries of the Gulf, particularly the United Arab Emirates", assert Jordanian security sources. This shows that prostitution networks have become transnational in this region of the globe: it is normal that prostitution networks move their "dependents" to a neighboring country or sell them to a local network.

Result: the calculations are messy. Example: during the war in Lebanon, last summer, Moroccan authorities believed to have repatriated all Moroccan nationals. But at the end of the hostilities, surprise! Four hundred Moroccan females suddenly appeared in the Lebanese streets. They were not indexed by any immigration service consulate or embassy.

The law of the silence:


What is sure on the other hand is that the Moroccan executives get really mad as soon as one mentions the sensitive issue of the pseudo-slavery of Moroccan girls in the Middle East. This phenomenon conceals financial issues that surpass them. To supply the tourist machine, which turns to full system thanks to the request of the Arabic riches, the tourist operators of the Gulf recruit foreign girls regularly: Eastern Europeans, North Africans, Egyptians and Asian. As a reason and result, the locals hardly ever take part in such activities. A Jordanian or a Syrian girl cannot work in night clubs in fear of death. In this region of the world, honor killings are still well anchored in the morals… and “punished” by the justice system with little clemency.

Morocco is thus between a rock and a hard place. Certain Moroccan embassies speak openly of the phenomenon, as is the case in Jordan, Syria and Lebanon, doubtlessly because of the aggravated problems there. The opposite happens in Kuwait, Bahrain and Qatar, the laws and the mentalities are much more closed. So, the embassies prefer by far using caution… till when? "We confer with the Jordanians, but without giving an official character to our consultations. We cannot police what goes on at their place", says a "well informed” Moroccan source in Amman. In 2005, two girls were found dead in doubtful circumstances. "The Jordanians refused to give us the report of the autopsy. Nevertheless, we know that one committed suicide and that the other must have been killed", specifies our source. Why did Morocco abstain from communicating officially its discontent? Out of fear to unveil a reality that does not suit anyone?

In any case, the Omertá of the countries keeps things unclear even at the borders’ level. Officially, the entry in Jordanian territory is not subjected to a visa. But the authorities of the country do not hesitate to perk up expulsions and deportation every time a scandal bursts in the media. Now, Moroccan women under the age of 40 years old cannot go through the airport of Amman without the company of their husbands or a male relative, unless they have a professional “convincing” invitation. Result: Moroccan women invited within the framework of their profession paid the expense of these irrational procedures. Example: a journalist from Attajdid, moreover veiled, had to spend the night at the airport of Amman while awaiting an entry authorization, delivered directly by the Jordanian ministry of the interior. Another journalist underwent the same treatment: "The policeman looked at me for a while and told me provocatively: 'This has got to be the first time I see a Moroccan working as a journalist!'", she said.

Fighting against sexual slavery by closing the borders does not seem to be a realistic and viable solution. Let’s note that not all Moroccan women who immigrate to Gulf countries are necessarily victims of human traffic networks or of sexual slavery. A big part of them chose to go there looking for financial resources, to each her own approach.

It is for this reason that the consular agents are disillusioned. "The problem must be resolved in Morocco first. Authorities must investigate each girl that desires to go to a Gulf country. The work contracts must be validated by the ministry of employment and the consular services", said a person working at the embassy of Morocco in Syria. Such a solution is hardly conceivable for two reasons. First, no visa is required to go to Bashar Al Assad’s country and the girls travel there as tourists. Second, what rights would the Moroccan authorities have to prevent them from traveling? Then, investigating all the ones who want to go to a Gulf country will not resolve anything.
Due to the tougher measures to check people boarding on flights bound for certain countries (Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Bahrain and Qatar), the girls currently go through three stops where the visa is not required: Tunisia, Turkey and Syria. Once on the spot, their "guardians" transport them without problems towards the final destinations. Certain girls go as far as Thailand before heading to a country of the Middle East. Under these conditions, how is it possible to resolve the labyrinthine ways of these networks fueled by money from sex?
"My curiosity arises as soon as I see a single girl who does not know how to sit properly in an airplane chair without assistance", says the sociologist Abdelfettah Ezzine.

For 4,000 DH ($450) a month

Despite the serious measures taken at the airports of the host countries, the phenomenon continues to escalate. Every day, the Moroccan embassy in Syria receives an average of three Moroccan females looking for help. Last year, the embassy addressed a virulent missive to Rabat, requesting an urgent intervention of the government to stop the flow of Moroccan "artists", of which the number is close to 2,000 in Damascus alone. The embassy got to a point where it started denouncing possible complicities in the Syrian security device.

At the foundation, explains Mohamed Khachani, expert in migrations, the problem lies in the institution of the kafil (the guardian). No foreigner can reside in the countries of the Gulf without a supposed guardian "to protect her". Now, the not so scrupulous kafils do not hesitate to exploit their dependants in other trades than those specified on potential work contracts. They withdraw their passports and their return tickets, putting them in the spot. "I attempted to commit suicide when I was asked to dress provocatively and serve the bar customers. I cried the whole time and I refused to eat. At the end of 28 days, they were forced to let me return to the country", relates Khadija, native of Tadla, that spent 28 days in Syria.

In case of resistance, the girls are beaten and deprived of their small “pay”. "Once, I refused to accompany an old man. He pulled me by the hair and almost raped me. Not only I was not paid, but my guardian locked me in my room for two days without food", remembers Saïda, another victim of the Syrian system. Constantly escorted by overseers the rare times where they go out in the city to do their shopping, some girls manage to escape and ask for assistance. But they are very few. "Their ‘buyers’ make them believe that they will be put in prison if they contact their consulate", asserts a diplomatic source. They then give up, and wait that an “admiring suitor” marries them and delivers them from sexual slavery. The runaways, when recovered by the police, are detained, while waiting to be given back to “their guardian”. Going out without the permission of the kafil is, in fact, considered as an offence. "Because of a spoiled escape attempt, my girls remained in prison in Amman for 18 days. Over there, they met Moroccans that had been rotting in jail for months", relates Mustapha. The incompatibility of the laws between Morocco and the countries of the Gulf is in fact the true problem behind the development of this modern-time slavery. But the associative workers feel that it is necessary to fight the networks at their basis, going upstream; meaning: Starting in Morocco. According to a magistrate, the mafias in Morocco are directed by Jordanians, Iraqis and Syrians. The complicity of a Moroccan that is usually an intermediary to the coveted girls is systematically used. Their hunt lands are classical: hairstyle parlors, hammams, coffee shops or private evenings. Recruited in the modest environments and the countryside, these girls "of third class", according to the expression used by a connoisseur of the file, leave with work contracts for which they paid between 10,000 and 30,000 DH. On the spot, they are confined and forced to prostitute themselves to pay their stay expenses. The salaries, announced in the basic contract, and that are already modest (4000 DH at the most), are tapped of a half and given… to the employer!

The mobilization of the NGO

Since a few months ago, the associative environment began getting active to dispel the silence on this drama and pushing politicians to act. At the occasion of the consultations conducted on the future Counsel of the MRE (Moroccans residing Abroad), three members of the CCDH carried out a visit in certain countries of the Middle East to inquire about the state of the Moroccans of the Gulf, "the ones forgotten by history", as university professor and expert in migratory movements Mohamed Khachani calls them. The latter did a study, soon to be published, for the Hassan II Foundation. The objective of his work is to attract the attention on this community soiled by prejudice and misconceptions. The picture of the "prostituted Moroccan" and of the "Moroccan procurer" induces collateral damages. "My sister is a director in a multinational corporation in Dubai. She was invited to a reception. Once home, she received a phone call from one of the guests that asked her for a rendezvous. Since that night, she has been hiding her Moroccan identity. In the corporate world, she became henceforth Algerian!" said an upset Moroccan living in Europe.

For Mohamed Khachani, it is times to set things straight. "This investigation made me anxious as I saw how much our women suffer over there", he said. The testimonies that he managed to collect in Libya, Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Oman and Jordan resulted in a report that confirms the one released by the Moroccan embassies: to avoid putting the entire responsibility on the countries of the Gulf and to cure the problem from within, in Morocco. "It is necessary to analyze the reasons of this obsession that Moroccans have to leave the country despite the incurred dangers", specifies the professor.

"We are not in a denouncing logic, but we want to sensitize and call the Moroccans to more vigilance", admits the sociologist Abdelfettah Ezzine, who lived for four years in a country of the Gulf. An international network of solidarity with the Moroccans of the Gulf was recently started in Europe. Why not in Morocco? "It is easier to lobby from the old democracies", we were told. Morocco can thus avoid a direct confrontation with the rich emirs that come to invest within the country. Formed by famous personalities as well as active NGOs in Europe, the network started by circulating a petition asking the governments to assume their responsibilities. So far, more than 6,500 signatures were collected (www.gopetition.com). And a report will be given to the UN in July. Let’s just say that the scandal of the Moroccans of the Gulf is about to become an international subject!


Guardianship. The all powerful kafil


If there is a common denominator between the countries of the Gulf, it has to be the institution of the kafil. To live and work in the one of these countries, all foreigners, even Arabs, must have a kafil, a guardian that is an interface between the host society and the guest to protect him/her lawfully. This law applies as much to the men as to the women. Guardianship, or kafala, can be exercised by a physical or moral person. All citizens of the Gulf desiring to welcome foreign working hands must deposit an authorization request to the ministry of the interior of their country. This one notifies the embassy in the residence country of the future employee, for it to deliver a work visa to the worker. The origin of the kafala goes back to the traditions of the Arabia Bedouins. In the tribal corporations, the foreigner had to be put under the protection of a guardian, supposed to caution him/her against danger. Nobody in the tribe could then approach him/her or engage in any activity with the guest without the approval of a kafil. In the tribal conception, any foreigner is not there to stay by default. He/She cannot obtain goods under his/her name nor benefit from the same advantages that the autochthonous people get. He/She is there just for the work. The non-recognition of the rights of the immigrants, in the modern direction of the term, is a taboo subject in the Gulf. In the international meetings, the kafala is often considered as a system that blocks the competition in an economy and perpetuates archaism.

Testimonies. "My husband bought to me to my guardian"

Saïda, 26 years-old, Casablanca "I left for Syria when I was 19 years old, to become a dancer. Naturally, I did not tell my parents. For them, I left to work as a waitress in a restaurant. I had to pay 50,000 DH for my work contract. Once there, I was taught how to dance. Later, I worked at a cabaret. Confined all day, I went out only on evenings to go to work. The girls had numbers. If one of them interested a customer, she was forced to accompany him in a reserved suite in the same hotel we lived. I was told that I would win 8,000 DH a month. At the end, I got only 20% of this sum. The remainder was given to my guardian. I could not protest or tell the truth to my parents, for I had lied to them since the very beginning. Once, one of my admirers proposed to marry me. I accepted right away. He had to pay an important sum to deliver me from slavery".

"18 days in prison without knowing why"

Salima, 23 years old, and Leila, 25, Kenitra "On the Internet, we met Abou Adnane, a Jordanian who offered us a “job” in his country. We both had an average school level and were unemployed. Our father accepted, but behind his back, we signed a proxy to the Jordanian, he was supposed to watch over our future over there (kafala). At the airport of Amman, the police let us pass without problems, but they stamped nonetheless our passports with a mention that “work is not allowed during the three months of tourist visit”. We asked for explanations from our Jordanian guardian, who then told us not to worry much about it… that "it is only paperwork for the airport police". Once at the hotel, Abou Adnane showed his true colors. He introduced us to the director of the hotel telling him the following: "Your merchandise arrived". We did not actually understand the stratagem until we were told to dress very lightly and "come down” to the cabaret. For 28 days, we dove in a world of smoke, alcohol and human sweat. Once, we attempted to escape, but the police quickly found us. They put us in jail for 18 days without ever telling us why. It was our father who got us out of it all. He managed to bring us back thanks to the union of the feminine action, which was able to mobilize Jordanian NGOs as well. Since that time, our life has changed. We are still unemployed. But who cares!?”

"I believed I would work as a hairstylist…"

Khadija, 23 years, Tadla "I wanted to emigrate in Spain, but a cousin assured me that I could earn a better living in Arabic countries, where the trade of hairdressers is in great demand. I went to Syria by the intermediary of my uncle’s ex-wife. I did not know that she was a procurer. She sent her own daughter over there. When I got to the hotel, I discovered another world. My cousin, who was supposedly very conservative, smoked and drank alcohol all day long. The girls were practically nude and went out only to serve the Libyan and the Saudis in the bar. They immediately withdrew my passport and asked me to dress provocatively. I refused. I told them that I’d rather die than show my body to these "wild beasts". I no longer ate. Seeing that I was not being productive, my guardian let me return to Morocco. My cousin followed me a few months later".


Prostitution as a career

"In Dubai, the most accessible Moroccan prostitutes is paid 3,700 DH a night". This follower of the night joys is an amateur of the Morocco label. "A Moroccan, that’s the top", he insists. She adapts herself easily, can speak the language of her customer and in his accent, and insure him the whole comfort that he wishes for. In this prosperous emirate, Moroccans are very demanded, despite the competition of the Eastern Europeans and the Asians. The Morocco product followed the evolution of the market. The girls that choose this emirate are generally more educated, more refined and look for a spot in the prostitution networks of luxury. Nothing to do with the little Moroccan that spends several years in the Gulf before she can afford to buy herself an apartment in Morocco! Today, the "girls of Dubai", as one calls them, play women matters, roll in nice cars and follow the lifestyle of bourgeoisie. "In Dubai, there is very little exploitation. The girl has the choice to prostitute herself or not", indicates a Moroccan journalist living in the area. Generally, the career plan is established in advance. The girl begins first at the bottom of the ladder, as a hostess in a bar. This period "of initiation" lasts 2 to 3 months, enough time to get used to the places and the morals, before making the next step. The next steps are explained by a "girl of Dubai": "The beginner starts out by giving her telephone number to some of her admirers. When one of them makes the call, she makes him languish, taunts him for a while, all the while asking him to get her out of her condition, so that she can focus on him completely. If the fish bites the hook, he then gets her an apartment, often bought under his name, and can even go as far as asking her to marry him". The ones that marry keep in mind that it is necessary to take advantage to the maximum of their current position, they caution themselves against the expulsion risks. Once "the sheep is well drained of his oil," they can ask or provoke the divorce by any means. Simultaneously, they undertake discovering other birds. "A professional always begins by consolidating her network of “friends” in the high spheres, which facilitates the obtaining of the precious visa and the protection against the hazards of the trade. They act generally in closed environments, combining wealth and preparing a sum for their old days. As they get older, they orient themselves progressively towards recruiting newbies", concludes our source.


Panorama. The rush towards the Gulf

If Lebanon had not known civil war, the phenomenon of the Moroccans in the Gulf would not have attained such spectacular dimensions. "In the middle of the 1970s, the Saudis and Kuwaitis were evicted from Boulevard Al Hamra in Beirut because of the civil war in Lebanon. They rushed towards Morocco right away", explains the sociologist Abdelfettah Ezzine, who leads the first historic social work on the feminine emigration in the countries of the Gulf. Due to the lack of documentation regarding this matter, the researcher used oral tradition to explain this evolution: the sketches of Casablanca’s tandem Zaâri and Dassoukine, rich with popular jokes about the Saudis and girls that prostitute themselves for the love of the petrodollars. Overtime, and in front of the heightened mistrust of Moroccan folks in public places, most of these “customers” chose to adopt the clothing style of the Moroccans to fit in. In the 1980s, for more safety measures, Saudis began sending for the girls to be brought “home”. "That does not mean that all the girls who live over there are prostitutes. The problem is their condition as women; which makes them more vulnerable in the eyes of society", specifies Ezzine. The flows towards the Gulf increase because of work opportunities in tourism. The war in Iraq did not halt this trend of immigration towards the countries of the petrodollar. The migration canals are even more diverse nowadays. The work contracts are getting more expensive, especially to Dubai, the paramount center for the sex industry in the Gulf.


Further. Moroccan and proud of being so

In a seminar regrouping natives of the countries of the Gulf, a Moroccan declines her nationality. They undress her with their looks. Mischievous smiles draw on their lips. The young woman gets the message immediately. This is not the first time. She is very bothered. She wants to scream to these “gentlemen” that Moroccans are not all "Wh%$*s…” But how to scrape clean the collective imagination of the Arabs built on a few misconceptions and a lot of ignorance? Even in Morocco, not so long ago, girls who went out in the evening or had blonde highlights were easily labeled as "Saudi Wh%$*s". Machos in search of a proof to their virility cast these insults on them in the street to humiliate them and to make them feel worthless. The petition, that circulates the collective effort in the defense of Moroccan women in the Gulf currently, breaks a taboo long maintained by the silence of the countries involved. Its aim is "to fight against this phenomenon degrading the humanity of the woman and reducing her femininity to fantasizing stereotypes ". A courageous initiative of course, but it is conducted by the Moroccans of Europe. Feminists of Morocco, Wake up! The problems of Moroccan women are not limited to the Moudawana and the laws on citizenship. It is necessary to rehabilitate their image in the Arab world for the simple reason that a lot of socially disadvantaged Moroccans are concerned. Take a stroll in popular neighborhoods, the beauty shops, and the hammams and you will be surprised to discover that several girls daydream about immigrating to the Arabian Peninsula, to make some money and get out of their financial hardships… Feminists of Morocco, our compatriots of the Gulf want to recover their dignity; they don’t want to face the prejudiced looks inherited from the sex ambassadors. They simply want to be able to introduce themselves as Moroccans without having to turn red!

Friday, April 21, 2006

Shootings?!


Last December, a friend of mine, Fouad Salik was shot in the head while minding his business at Habibi Cafe, Westwood. He survived, but has not woken up from his coma. Several people suggested pulling the plug on the 36 year old brain-dead man. His family chose not to. The decision was clear: “As long as he is breathing, there is hope." said his sobbing mother.
Last Sunday, a young 22 year-old was shot in the head. The Diamond Bar woman died the following Tuesday.
Her funerals were held on Friday at the Garden Grove Mosque. Was it a hate crime? A gang initiation? That, no one really knows for a fact. However, when looking at the young woman's friends, her father said: "I find comfort in knowing that she brought people of all races and religious backgrounds together on her funeral."
In 1998 alone, over 30,000 people in the United States died from firearm-related deaths. Of those victims, about 12,000 were murdered; while 17,424 committed suicide. A 3 percent average died accidentally, totaling 866 people.
Second amendment or not, guns are not toys! But that's just the opinion of someone who never heard of any shootings growing up because guns are not carried by anyone where I was raised.

Friday, April 14, 2006

Divorce

(sorry for the offensive language in the Chris Rock show)
To get a divorce in California, one must wait for approximately six months. In other states, it varies between a 2 year period, as in Maryland, and absolutely no waiting time in Florida.
Meanwhile, Nevada has been the leading state with its high divorce rates. But of course, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas, so why should anyone's marriage follow him if it only happened in Las Vegas (I am being cynical obviously).
Considering that red states have divorce rates higher by 27% than blue states, one might consider the location he may pick to start a family.
Another important factor in a successful marriage is the age of the couple. Early marriage is a key predictor of later divorce. Nearly half of the people who marry under the age of 18 and about 40 percent who choose to tie the knot before the age of 20 end up divorced. This rate drops to 24 percent for people who choose to wait until a later age, after 25.
My friend got a divorce a couple of days ago. It is fascinating for me to see people, who have chosen to live together and tie the knot, untie their union faster than one would have thought possible. Most of my friends are divorced or in the process. This thought makes me dread that commitment even more, although my mother is persistent in her "quest" for Mr. Right for me. I believe compatibility and logic play a bigger role than love in a relationship. Who said that feelings could make a marriage? Romance is only an image presented by the media to boost the sale of certain products. Honestly, I cannot think of a single happy couple! I am not pessimistic, it's just a fact.
Would I consider getting married? Maybe, eventually. But I believe one should not see marriage as an end, but rather as a means in itself. Most people (especially women) think that it is the ultimate goal in life. Personally, I believe marriage is just part of the process of moving on to another step in life.